How Much Does It Cost To Replace A Load Bearing Deck Post?

Load-bearing deck posts do more than hold up floor joists. They carry the weight of the deck, furniture, people, planters, and in Atlanta, the occasional soaked-through cushion after a summer storm. When a post rots, splits, or sinks, the load shifts and the whole structure starts to complain: bouncy boards, sagging rails, doors that stick when the deck ties into the house. If you’re searching for deck post repair near me and you live in the Atlanta area, you’re probably seeing the signs and wondering what the bill will look like.

This article breaks down real costs, shows what drives the price up or down, and explains how we replace a load-bearing post the right way. You’ll see what’s worth DIY and what belongs with a pro. And if you’re in Atlanta, GA, you’ll understand the local factors that change the numbers here compared to a national average.

A clear cost range for Atlanta, GA

For a single load-bearing post replacement in the Atlanta metro, homeowners typically spend $650 to $1,600 per post. Most jobs fall in the $900 to $1,300 range when we replace one 6x6 post, add a proper footing, install new hardware, and reattach the beam. That includes labor, concrete, post base, post cap or saddle, disposal of the old post, and standard shoring.

Prices go higher when we hit any of these conditions: tight access under a low deck, a multi-level deck, heavy brick or stone veneer close to the post location, or the need to pour a new deep footing because of poor soil or old construction. They can go lower for an easy-access single post on a ground-level deck where the beam is easy to shore and the soil is stable.

For multi-post projects, there are economies of scale. Two to three posts on the same day can drop per-post labor by 10 to 20 percent because shoring and setup carry across the work area. If we discover that several posts share the same failure pattern, it’s often more cost-effective to plan them together.

What drives cost up or down

No two decks fail the same way. The price hinges on a few tangible factors that you can spot before you call.

• Post size and species. Most Atlanta decks use pressure-treated southern yellow pine in 6x6. Replacing a 4x4 is cheaper but 4x4 posts are not acceptable for most load-bearing conditions today. If yours is cedar or composite-clad, hardware and finish work may add cost.
• Footings. Old decks often have posts buried directly in soil or set in a shallow blob of concrete. Code today calls for a footing below frost depth with the post sitting on a metal base above grade. If we have to demo and form a new footing, that adds materials, digging time, and cure time.
• Access. On a tall deck with open space, we can shore quickly and swap a post fast. On a 24-inch-high deck with tight joist spacing, we crawl on our sides and work slower. Lattice, shrubs, air conditioner lines, and irrigation add to setup and protection time.
• Beam connections. Some decks use a notched post supporting a beam. Others use a saddle or cap. If the beam has rot or undersized hardware, we need to address it during the post swap to keep the structure safe, which can expand the scope.
• Permits and inspections. In the City of Atlanta, Sandy Springs, Decatur, and many parts of Cobb and Gwinnett, replacing a load-bearing component can require a permit. Permit fees range from about $75 to $250, and inspections may add a return trip.
• Drainage and site conditions. Standing water, clay-heavy backfill, and sloped yards mean deeper footings and more concrete. Atlanta red clay holds water against wood, so we factor in drainage adjustments if needed.
• Finishes and wraps. If your post has a PVC wrap, painted trim, or stone veneer, removal and reinstatement adds labor and materials.

Materials and labor: a line-item view

You will not always see these as separate charges on an invoice, but they explain the spread from a simple swap to a full rebuild of one corner.

• Concrete and footing materials: $40 to $120 per post, depending on depth and diameter. A typical 12 to 16-inch diameter footing at 24 to 30 inches deep in Metro Atlanta clay fits most decks.
• Post base and hardware: $35 to $110. We use Simpson Strong-Tie or equivalent hot-dip galvanized or ZMAX-rated hardware for treated lumber compatibility.
• New post: $35 to $65 for a straight 8 to 10-foot PT 6x6. Longer or higher-grade lumber costs more, and we select for straight grain to avoid twist.
• Temporary shoring materials and jacks: part of labor, but if the deck requires additional beams or custom cribbing, add $50 to $150.
• Labor: $450 to $1,100 per post, driven by access, shoring complexity, beam rework, and finish carpentry.

If the footing is intact and correctly sized, and access is clear, we can replace one post, hardware included, near $800. If we must demo an old buried post, dig and pour a new footing, add a base, and sister beam plies, the total can reach $1,400 to $1,600.

Signs your deck post needs replacement, not just repair

Homeowners often ask if we can patch a post or add a bracket. Sometimes that is safe and budget-friendly. Sometimes it is a bandage that lets the problem spread.

Soft wood at the base of the post is the most common warning. Probe with a screwdriver; if it sinks more than an eighth of an inch, rot is active. Dark staining, mushrooms, or carpenter ant activity indicate trapped moisture. A post that leans or a beam that sits unevenly across posts shows movement in the footing or the post itself.

Hairline cracks along the grain are normal on pressure-treated posts, but wide, deep splits that run through the post can reduce the load capacity. If the post is buried in soil or encased in concrete without a standoff, assume the base has begun to decay. A quick rule in Atlanta humidity: if your deck is more than 12 to 15 years old and the posts touch soil or sit in concrete, plan on replacement.

What we do during a proper post replacement

A correct replacement starts with stabilizing the structure. We do not remove a post until the load above is supported. Then we remove the failed component, fix the foundation, and reassemble with corrosion-resistant hardware and proper clearances Website link from grade. The steps we follow are consistent because gravity is consistent.

• Assess and measure loads. We identify beam spans, joist direction, and tributary area to set jack points and cribbing. This avoids transferring loads to weak members.
• Shore the beam. We set temporary beams and screw jacks on firm ground or temporary footings, then take up load just enough to relieve the post. Deck boards may lift a hair. This is normal.
• Remove the old post and hardware. If the post is buried in concrete, we cut it free at the beam and excavate the base. If it sits on a rusted base, we remove the base and clean the pedestal.
• Replace or install a new footing. For inadequate footings, we dig to below frost line, bell or broaden as needed, add rebar where appropriate, pour concrete, and let it cure to strength. On many jobs we use high-early concrete to reduce delay.
• Set the new post and connect properly. The post sits on a metal standoff base above grade, fastened with approved anchors. We plumb the post, attach the beam with a cap or notch per code, and fasten with structural screws or through-bolts, not nails.
• Remove shoring and check alignment. We lower the load carefully, recheck plumb, resecure lateral bracing, and tighten connections after the structure settles.

On low decks, the tight-clearance phase takes the longest. On tall decks with free space, most of the time is in the footing and hardware.

Atlanta-specific conditions that influence cost and method

Metro Atlanta presents a mix of older subdivisions with decks built in the 1990s and early 2000s and newer homes with larger spans and heavier outdoor kitchens. We see a lot of 4x4 posts still in service on older decks, often with no base and concrete poured around the wood. That traps moisture and accelerates rot. The red clay holds water near the base, and sprinkler overspray keeps it wet.

Neighborhoods with sloped lots, like parts of Buckhead, Vinings, and East Cobb, have tall decks with 12 to 16-foot posts. These need stronger temporary shoring and careful handling. In-town lots in Grant Park and Kirkwood often limit access, so we protect landscaping and work by hand. In Decatur and Brookhaven, permitting departments will require photos, documentation of hardware, and sometimes a mid-project inspection when we replace structural members. We build this into our schedule.

Finally, termites are a reality. Treated wood resists them, but not perfectly. If we see mud tubes near post bases or damaged wood above the ground line, we advise bringing in a pest professional before we reinstall a new post.

DIY vs hiring a pro

If your deck is ground-level, with no more than two steps up, and the post supports a small area, a skilled DIYer can sometimes replace a non-critical post with careful shoring. Still, be honest about risk. The moment you remove a load-bearing element, the structure relies entirely on your temporary supports and your judgment. A short list of where we recommend calling a pro:

• Multi-story decks, or any deck with posts taller than 8 feet
• Decks attached to the house where movement could affect doors, windows, or siding
• Beam splices sitting on the post you plan to replace
• Signs of foundation movement or heaving
• Electrical, gas, or plumbing lines running nearby

We have seen DIY shoring kick out due to soft soil, which dropped a beam two inches and split several joists. The repair bill then grew to include joist sisters and board replacement. Load path safety is the reason homeowners search deck post repair near me and end up relieved when a licensed crew handles the lift.

How to budget and plan the work

Most single-post jobs require half a day to a full day, plus footing cure time if a new footing is needed. If we pour a new footing, we often set the post the next business day with high-early bags. For a standard schedule, plan one to two days.

Get a detailed estimate that states whether a new footing is included, what hardware brand and model will be used, and how shoring is handled. Ask if the quote covers permit fees where required and whether the contractor will return to tighten hardware after settlement. Confirm that all connectors are rated for contact with treated lumber and for outdoor exposure.

If you manage multiple issues, such as wobbly stairs or a loose ledger, coordinate them during the same visit. We can shore once and address several structural items efficiently, which lowers overall cost compared to separate trips.

What “load-bearing” really means on your deck

On a typical deck, the load runs from decking to joists to beams to posts to footings and then to soil. A load-bearing post directly supports a beam or the outer rim. Corner posts often carry two beam directions and any diagonal bracing. Posts under a hot tub, pergola, or outdoor kitchen handle more weight than casual seating areas. If you have added a Big Green Egg, stone countertop, or large planters over time, the deck may carry more than it did when built. We sometimes upsize hardware or recommend sistering a beam when replacing a post to reflect the present loads.

Preventing future failures

Most post failures start with moisture. Keep the base dry and elevated. A metal standoff base that lifts the post at least an inch above the concrete allows air to circulate. Clear mulch and soil away from the base. Redirect sprinklers so they do not hit the post. If you wrap posts with PVC or composite, leave a weep gap at the bottom and vent at the top to let trapped moisture escape.

Use the right fasteners. Treated lumber corrodes standard galvanized nails over time, especially in humidity. Structural screws and ZMAX or stainless hardware resist corrosion. Avoid notching posts to accept beams unless the notch leaves plenty of uncut thickness; modern post caps often perform better and keep the grain intact.

Inspect once a year. A five-minute walk with a flashlight can save a thousand dollars. Look for settling, cracked footings, rust streaks on hardware, and soft wood near the base. Check lateral bracing on tall decks; loose bracing makes posts work harder in wind.

A real Atlanta example

A homeowner in Smyrna called about a corner post with mushrooms along the base. The deck was 14 by 18 feet, 10 feet off grade, built in 2005 with 6x6 posts set directly into concrete. We shored the corner with a temporary beam and two screw jacks, cut the post at the beam, and found the base rotten for the bottom six inches. The footing was shallow and bell-shaped but only 12 inches deep.

We broke out the old concrete, dug to 30 inches, set a 16-inch diameter footing with rebar, and returned the next day to install a new 6x6 with a Simpson standoff base and a heavy-duty post cap. We tightened diagonal bracing and replaced a rusted joist hanger we noticed while shoring. The job took parts of two days. Total cost landed at $1,280, including disposal and permit from Cobb County. The deck felt steadier immediately and doors to the adjacent sunroom stopped sticking.

What happens if you delay

A failing post does not self-correct. As the post crushes or rots, loads shift to nearby posts and beams, which increases deflection. Deck boards begin to gap, railings loosen as the structure moves, and hardware elongates holes. In our climate, the cycle of summer humidity and winter cold opens cracks and invites more water. Waiting six months can turn a single-post swap into a two-post and beam-sister job. The difference in cost can be $800 to $2,000 more than early intervention.

Insurance rarely covers rot unless a sudden covered event caused it. Real estate buyers in Atlanta now hire inspectors who flag any structural issues. If you plan to sell, load-bearing post replacement becomes a negotiation item. Handling it now gives you the choice of contractor, materials, and schedule rather than a compressed timeline before closing.

Permits and code in Metro Atlanta

While each jurisdiction has its own language, most consider a load-bearing component replacement a structural repair that requires a simple permit. City of Atlanta, Sandy Springs, and Decatur commonly ask for:

• A basic scope of work and sketch showing the post, footing size, and connectors
• Product sheets for connectors and bases
• Final inspection after installation

Permit fees are modest, and the process is straightforward. We handle this for our clients. If you DIY, confirm with your local office; surprise inspections can halt work and delay projects.

How Heide Contracting approaches your deck post repair

We start with a site visit anywhere in Atlanta, including Buckhead, Midtown, Decatur, Smyrna, Marietta, and Johns Creek. We measure spans, check the ledger, and look for related issues like beam rot or loose bracing. We give a written estimate with a clear scope, including whether a new footing is priced and what hardware we will use.

On the day of work, we protect nearby surfaces, set temporary shoring, and keep you updated before we lift. We cut only what we must, and we leave the new post plumb and secured with hardware that matches current code. We clean up, label any photos for your records, and if a permit was required, we schedule the inspection.

If you searched deck post repair near me because a corner post is suspect, we can usually assess within a few days and schedule quickly. We carry the standard hardware on our trucks so we do not stall the job waiting for a bracket.

Straight answers to common questions

How many posts usually fail at once? Often the sunniest or wettest corner goes first. If posts were buried or set the same way, the others are on the same clock. We check all bases while we are on site. Sometimes we recommend tackling a second post while shoring is in place.

Will a new post solve bouncing? If bounce comes from long joist spans or an undersized beam, a new post alone will not remove all deflection. We will tell you if a mid-span beam or joist stiffening is the real fix.

Do composite-wrapped posts last longer? The wrap protects from UV but can trap moisture if sealed at the bottom. We vent wraps and keep the base off the concrete to extend life.

Can you reuse the old footing? If it is deep enough, intact, and sized correctly, yes. We clean and add a proper base anchor. If it is shallow, cracked, or bell-shaped at the surface, we replace it.

How soon can I use the deck? If we do not pour new concrete, you can use it the same day. If we pour a footing, we typically set the post the next day and open the deck that evening.

What to expect to pay by scenario

• Easy access, existing good footing, single 6x6 swap: $700 to $900
• Moderate access, new standoff base and cap, minor beam touch-ups: $900 to $1,200
• New footing required, tight crawl space, permit and inspection: $1,200 to $1,600
• Tall deck post (12 to 16 feet) with bracing adjustments: $1,300 to $1,900

These ranges reflect Atlanta labor rates, materials, and permit realities. They stay current because we buy hardware and concrete weekly and see seasonal shifts. For example, during busy spring months, suppliers sometimes run low on specific hardware, and we adjust with equivalent rated parts.

Ready for a safe, solid deck?

If your deck has a soft post base, visible lean, or a beam sitting unevenly, it is time to act. Search deck post repair near me if you want broad options, or call Heide Contracting directly if you are in Atlanta, GA. We will inspect, price the work clearly, and replace the post with stronger, code-compliant hardware so you can use your deck without worry. Schedule a visit today, and let’s keep the structure under your feet as sound as it looks.